Portobello and Rathmines (Dublin 6 and 8) form one of Dublin’s most charming inner suburbs combining village character with central city proximity. The Grand Canal runs along the northern boundary of Portobello, the Camden Street strip houses the city’s liveliest small theatres and music venues, and the residential streets of Rathmines retain a leafy Victorian feel. This guide covers what makes Portobello and Rathmines distinctive, what to see, eat, drink, and do, and how the area fits into a wider Dublin exploration.
This is one chapter of our full Dublin neighbourhood guide.
Understanding Portobello and Rathmines
Portobello (Dublin 8) sits just south of the city centre between the Grand Canal and the South Circular Road. The area takes its name from the Battle of Porto Bello (1739) in Panama. The neighbourhood combines Victorian terraces, the Portobello Bridge over the Grand Canal, the Bernard Shaw Pub (now relocated to a new venue), and the lively Camden Street/Wexford Street strip of restaurants, theatres, and music venues.
Rathmines (Dublin 6) extends south from Portobello with Rathmines Road as the central artery. The neighbourhood developed in the 19th century as a middle-class Victorian suburb with grand terraces, the Rathmines Town Hall (1899), and the Stella Cinema. Today Rathmines combines student housing (large numbers of Trinity College and DCU students live here), young professionals, and long-established families. The Sunday lunch tradition at Rathmines pubs is one of Dublin’s strongest.
Camden Street and Wexford Street
Camden Street and its continuation Wexford Street form Dublin’s most concentrated strip of small theatres, music venues, and quality restaurants. The street runs from St Stephen’s Green south to the Portobello Bridge over the Grand Canal. Major venues:
- Whelan’s — Wexford Street. Iconic Dublin music venue (the Hozier-blessed setting of his “Take Me to Church” video). Live music nightly, smaller intimate venue.
- The Bowery — Camden Street. Live music venue with stronger emphasis on indie and alternative.
- Anseo — Camden Street. DJ-focused bar with strong cocktail programme.
- Devitt’s — Camden Street. Traditional pub with trad music sessions Saturday afternoons.
- The Sugar Club — Lower Leeson Street. Multi-format venue (music, comedy, film).
- The Drink Factory — Wexford Street. Craft beer focus.
- The Vintage Cocktail Club — Crown Alley (just north). Speakeasy-style cocktails.
Portobello and Rathmines Restaurants
- Locks Restaurant — Windsor Terrace, Portobello. Premium Modern Irish on the Grand Canal.
- Etto — Merrion Row (just north). Excellent Italian small plates.
- Pang — Wexford Street. Vietnamese bahn mi and pho.
- Camile Thai — Lower Camden Street. Family-friendly Thai with kids’ menus.
- Pichet — Trinity Street (5 minutes north). French-Irish bistro.
- Bibi’s — Emorville Avenue, Portobello. Family-friendly cafe with weekly story sessions.
- Bibi’s Cafe — A sister venue with brunch focus.
- The Greenhouse — Dawson Street (just north). Michelin-starred fine dining.
- Pizza Boutique — Camden Street. Modern wood-fired pizzas.
- Featherblade — Dawson Street area. Steakhouse with strong wine list.
Rathmines: Dublin’s Village Suburb
Rathmines centres on Rathmines Road, the busy north-south artery with shops, restaurants, and the iconic Rathmines Town Hall (1899). The Stella Cinema (1923) is Dublin’s most charming small cinema, recently restored to its original Art Deco glory. The Tara Towers and surrounding streets retain Victorian and Edwardian residential character.
Rathmines is home to numerous independent restaurants and pubs including Slattery’s of Rathmines (traditional pub), Mother Reilly’s (gastropub with Sunday lunch), the Hampton Hotel restaurant, and many smaller cafes. The Sunday lunch tradition at Rathmines pubs is particularly strong — many Dubliners drive in from suburbs to attend their preferred Rathmines pub on Sundays.
Grand Canal and Portobello Bridge
The Grand Canal forms the northern boundary of Portobello. The Portobello Bridge (1791, La Touche Bridge) is a charming hump-backed stone bridge crossing the canal. The towpath walk along both sides of the Grand Canal extends from Portobello west to Heuston Station and east to Grand Canal Dock at the Docklands. The walk passes the Patrick Kavanagh statue (the poet famously wrote “Canal Bank Walk” about this spot), and many resting benches.
The Grand Canal Theatre at the eastern terminus (in the Docklands) is a different venue from the Grand Canal Hotel near Portobello. The Patrick Kavanagh statue at Mespil Road shows the poet sitting on a bench by the canal. The canal walk is particularly atmospheric in early morning or evening. Free, open daily. Family-friendly.
The Stella Cinema (Rathmines)
The Stella Cinema at 207 Rathmines Road Lower is Dublin’s most beautiful small cinema. The 1923 Art Deco interior was restored to original specification in 2017, with red velvet seats, original lighting, and a small bar. The cinema combines new release programming with classic film screenings and special event programmes. Stella Diner upstairs serves quality American-Italian food before screenings. Tickets €15–20 including dinner option. Wednesday morning Mini-Stella kids’ screenings €6.
Portobello Music Venues
Whelan’s (Wexford Street)
Whelan’s is Dublin’s most iconic small music venue. The 350-capacity room has hosted countless international touring acts plus emerging Irish musicians. The venue gained international fame when Hozier filmed the “Take Me to Church” music video here. Live music nightly. Tickets €15–40 depending on act. Standing room only; arrive early for good views.
Other Portobello venues
- The Bowery — Smaller indie venue with strong programme.
- Anseo — DJ-focused venue.
- The Sugar Club (Leeson Street) — Multi-format with seating.
- The Workman’s Club (Wellington Quay, just north) — Indie venue with multiple rooms.
- Camden Comedy Club — Stand-up comedy specialist.
Camden Street Theatres
- Project Arts Centre — East Essex Street (5 minutes north). Multi-format contemporary arts.
- The New Theatre — Essex Street. Contemporary small theatre.
- Smock Alley Theatre — Lower Exchange Street. Historic theatre (1662).
- The Olympia Theatre — Dame Street. Major mid-size venue.
- The Sugar Club — Live theatre and comedy events.
Best Pubs in Portobello and Rathmines
- Slattery’s of Rathmines — Rathmines Road. Traditional pub with Sunday lunch and strong local clientele.
- Mother Reilly’s — Rathmines Road. Gastropub with quality Sunday lunch.
- The Bleeding Horse — Camden Street. Historic pub (claims to be Dublin’s oldest by various measures).
- Anseo — Camden Street. DJ-focused, younger crowd.
- The Bath — Ringsend (east). Local pub.
- Devitt’s — Camden Street. Trad music sessions.
- The Headline — Clanbrassil Street. Local pub with strong food.
- Hartigan’s — Lower Leeson Street. Sunday lunch tradition.
Walks Through Portobello and Rathmines
Suggested walking routes:
- Grand Canal walk — Portobello Bridge to Grand Canal Dock via the towpath. 30 minutes one way.
- Camden Street strip — St Stephen’s Green to Portobello Bridge. 15 minutes one way.
- Rathmines residential walk — Rathmines Road and surrounding Victorian streets. 1 hour.
- Iveagh Gardens to Portobello — Through the secret garden then south to the canal. 30 minutes.
- Portobello to Harold’s Cross — Continue south past Rathmines for full residential village experience.
How to Get to Portobello and Rathmines
- Walking from city centre — 15–20 minutes from St Stephen’s Green via Camden Street.
- Dublin Bus — Multiple routes including 14, 15, 65, 65B, 122.
- Luas Green Line — Charlemont stop serves the eastern edge of Portobello.
- Taxi — €8–12 from city centre.
Where to Stay
Portobello and Rathmines have a limited but charming hotel offering:
- The Clayton Hotel Charlemont — Charlemont Place, Portobello. Modern 4-star with family rooms. From €180.
- The Iveagh Garden Hotel — Harcourt Street, Portobello edge. Boutique hotel with Iveagh Gardens views. From €220.
- The Mespil Hotel — Mespil Road, near Grand Canal. 4-star with canal views. From €160.
- Travelodge Dublin Phoenix Park — Budget option just west.
- Multiple Airbnb options — Victorian apartments throughout Rathmines and Portobello, popular for longer stays.
Suggested Portobello and Rathmines Day
Morning: Brunch at Bibi’s or one of the Portobello cafes. Walk along the Grand Canal towpath to see the Patrick Kavanagh statue. Continue to Rathmines via Rathmines Road.
Lunch: Rathmines Sunday lunch at Slattery’s, Mother Reilly’s, or Hartigan’s. Or weekday lunch at one of the Camden Street venues.
Afternoon: Browse Rathmines independent shops and the Stella Cinema (afternoon screening if available). Walk through Victorian residential streets.
Evening: Cocktails at Anseo. Dinner on Camden Street. Live music at Whelan’s, the Bowery, or the Sugar Club. Late drinks at Devitt’s or one of the Camden Street pubs.
A Brief Portobello and Rathmines History
Portobello developed in the 18th century around the Grand Canal, which opened in 1796 connecting Dublin to the Shannon River. The neighbourhood’s Portobello Bridge (1791) predates the canal’s completion. The area takes its name from the 1739 Battle of Porto Bello in Panama, where the British navy captured Spanish-held Porto Bello — the victory inspired naming throughout Britain and Ireland. Portobello’s Jewish community was a major presence from the 1880s onwards; the Irish Jewish Museum on Walworth Road preserves this history.
Rathmines developed as a Victorian middle-class suburb from the 1820s onwards. The grand red-brick terraces along Rathmines Road and surrounding streets housed Dublin’s professional and merchant classes through the 19th and early 20th centuries. The Rathmines Town Hall (1899, designed by Sir Thomas Drew) reflects the area’s civic ambition. Twentieth-century decline saw many Rathmines houses subdivided into student bedsits and apartments; gentrification since the 1990s has restored many of the buildings to single-family use. Today Rathmines combines long-established families, young professionals, and Trinity College/DCU students.
The Irish Jewish Museum
The Irish Jewish Museum on Walworth Road, Portobello preserves the history of Dublin’s Jewish community. The small museum is housed in the former Walworth Road Synagogue (built 1880, deconsecrated 1972). The collection includes religious artefacts, family photographs, oral histories, and exhibits on Jewish contributions to Irish life including politicians, lawyers, doctors, and writers. Robert Briscoe, Dublin’s first Jewish Lord Mayor (twice elected, 1956 and 1961), grew up in the area. Free admission, open Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday 10am–3pm. Allow 60 minutes.
Patrick Kavanagh on the Grand Canal
The poet Patrick Kavanagh (1904–1967) famously sat on a Grand Canal bench at Mespil Road during his Dublin years, writing some of his finest work including “Canal Bank Walk” and “Lines Written on a Seat on the Grand Canal.” The Patrick Kavanagh statue near Mespil Road, sculpted by John Coll in 1991, depicts the poet sitting on the bench he wrote about. The statue is a popular photo stop. Visitors with deep literary interest can read Kavanagh’s canal poems before visiting for the full literary experience. The Kavanagh canal walk is particularly atmospheric in autumn light.
Annual Events in Portobello and Rathmines
- Portobello Festival (June) — Free community festival with music, kids’ events, food stalls.
- Rathmines Festival (May) — Local community events programme.
- Whelan’s gig schedule — Major international and Irish acts year-round.
- Stella Cinema special programmes — Classic film screenings, special events.
- Camden Street nightlife — Vibrant year-round with seasonal special events.
- Bloomsday (16 June) — Some Joyce-themed events in the area.
- Culture Night (late September) — Multiple Portobello/Rathmines venues participate.
Deeper Look at Portobello Dining
Portobello’s dining scene has evolved rapidly over the past decade. Beyond the established institutions, newer additions include Pang (Wexford Street, Vietnamese), Bibi’s (Emorville Avenue, family brunch), Soup Dragon Plus (Lower Camden Street, casual), and Brother Hubbard South (Harrington Street, excellent brunch). The Bombay Pantry (Camden Street) offers reliable mid-priced Indian. The Camden Hatter (Camden Street) is a popular casual lunch spot with sandwiches and salads. For special occasions, the Locks Restaurant on Windsor Terrace remains one of Dublin’s most romantic dining experiences with Grand Canal views.
Independent Shops in Portobello and Rathmines
Portobello and Rathmines have an excellent independent retail scene. Rathmines Road has multiple independent bookshops, vintage clothing stores, and household goods shops. Camden Street has The Camden Hatter (lifestyle goods) and several music shops. Aungier Street (north of Portobello) has the Eason flagship bookshop and Dunnes Stores. South Circular Road has several Asian grocers reflecting the area’s multicultural community. The Saturday morning Camden Street/George’s Street area markets bring crafts and vintage shopping.
Rugby and Sports Culture
Portobello’s proximity to the Aviva Stadium (Ringsend, 15 minutes east) makes the area popular with rugby supporters on match days. Several Portobello and Rathmines pubs become hubs for pre-match drinks and post-match analysis. Hartigan’s (Lower Leeson Street) is a particular rugby pub, Slattery’s of Rathmines is popular with Munster fans, and Mother Reilly’s welcomes mixed sport crowds. Big rugby weekends including Six Nations Ireland home matches see significant crowds in the area — book pub tables ahead or arrive early.
Student Life in Rathmines
Rathmines has historically housed large numbers of Trinity College Dublin and DCU students — the area’s mid-range rents, central location, and multiple flats above shops made it a perennial student favourite. Many subdivided Victorian houses operated as student bedsits through the 20th century. Contemporary Rathmines retains significant student population alongside young professionals and long-established families. The cafes, restaurants, and pubs reflect this mix — budget-friendly student venues alongside more upscale options. The annual Trinity College and DCU starts in September brings noticeable population shifts to the area.
Walking Distance to Other Dublin Areas
Portobello and Rathmines are notably central despite their suburban feel. Distances on foot: St Stephen’s Green 15–20 minutes, Grafton Street 20 minutes, Trinity College 25 minutes, Temple Bar 25 minutes, the Docklands 30 minutes, Phoenix Park 45 minutes, Howth (DART required) 30 minutes via city centre transfer. The Luas Green Line Charlemont stop offers tram access to the city centre and onward to Sandyford. Dublin Bus routes run frequently to all major Dublin destinations.
Hidden Corners of Portobello and Rathmines
For visitors with deeper interest in the area, several less-known stops reward exploration. The Synge Street connects George Bernard Shaw’s birthplace (33 Synge Street) with the area’s literary heritage. The Shaw Birthplace Museum has been intermittently closed for restoration — check the OPW website for current status. Harrington Street has Brother Hubbard South cafe and several quiet residential streets. Pleasants Street houses the Cake Cafe in a former laundrette setting. The Camden Street Lower end has additional restaurants and the Bombay Pantry. The South Circular Road westward continues toward the Liberties with Asian grocers and restaurants reflecting the multicultural community.
The Wood Quay Venue beneath the Civic Offices (15 minutes north in the city centre) preserves Viking trading post archaeology. For visitors interested in residential architecture, simply walking residential streets of Rathmines (e.g., Belgrave Square, Palmerston Park, Leinster Square) provides an excellent free architectural tour of late 19th century Dublin.
Portobello and Rathmines Dublin: FAQ
What is Portobello known for?
Portobello is known for its Victorian residential streets, the Grand Canal, and the Camden Street strip of restaurants, music venues, and small theatres. The neighbourhood combines village character with central Dublin proximity. Whelan’s music venue (famous for the Hozier “Take Me to Church” video) anchors the entertainment scene.
Is Rathmines a good area to stay in Dublin?
Yes for visitors wanting Victorian Dublin character with central proximity. Rathmines combines residential village atmosphere, quality pubs, and the iconic Stella Cinema with 20 minutes bus access to city centre. The area suits longer stays particularly well, with extensive Airbnb options in restored Victorian apartments.
What can I do in Portobello?
Walk the Grand Canal towpath, enjoy Camden Street’s restaurants and music venues, attend a Whelan’s gig, visit the Iveagh Gardens (just north), explore Victorian residential streets, and experience the Sunday lunch tradition at Rathmines pubs. The area suits both day visitors and longer-stay exploration.
Where is Whelan’s in Dublin?
Whelan’s is at 25 Wexford Street, Dublin 2. The iconic small music venue (capacity 350) hosts live music nightly. Famous as the setting for Hozier’s “Take Me to Church” music video. Tickets €15–40 depending on act. 15 minutes walk from St Stephen’s Green.
Is the Bernard Shaw pub still open in Portobello?
The original Bernard Shaw pub on South Richmond Street closed in 2019. The brand relocated to a new venue at Cross Guns in Phibsborough as the Bernard Shaw Glasnevin. The original Portobello location is no longer operating — check current status before visiting. The Eatyard food market that operated in the pub yard has also relocated.
What’s on Camden Street Dublin?
Camden Street and the connected Wexford Street form Dublin’s liveliest small theatre and music venue strip. Major venues include Whelan’s, the Bowery, Anseo, Devitt’s, the Bleeding Horse pub. Restaurants include Pang, Camile Thai, Pizza Boutique, and the Camden Street strip of quality casual dining. Live music and DJ nights run throughout the week.
How do I get to Rathmines from city centre?
Dublin Bus routes 14, 15, 65, 65B, 122 all serve Rathmines from city centre (15–20 minutes). The Luas Green Line Charlemont stop serves the northern edge of Portobello. Walking takes 25–35 minutes from St Stephen’s Green via Camden Street and Portobello Bridge. Taxi €8–12.
What restaurants are good in Portobello?
Premium options include Locks Restaurant and Etto. Mid-range options include Pichet, Pizza Boutique, Camile Thai, and Pang. Casual options include Bibi’s family cafe, Brother Hubbard brunch, and the Camden Street strip of quality casual dining. For Sunday lunch tradition, the Rathmines pubs (Slattery’s, Mother Reilly’s, Hartigan’s) excel.
Keep Reading
- The Liberties: Dublin’s Oldest Neighbourhood — Christ Church, St Patrick’s and the Guinness Storehouse, in the medieval quarter that still feels lived-in.
- Dublin Northside: Phibsborough, Drumcondra & Beyond — Croke Park, the Botanic Gardens and far better food value than the tourist centre.
- Howth Village: Dublin’s Coastal Gem — Twenty-five minutes on the DART for cliff walks, harbour seals and the best fish and chips in the county.
- brunch spots — a related guide from elsewhere on the site.
